My 7 inch LCD monitor for FPV

Hello again,
I want to introduce to you a good LCD monitor suitable for FPV according to the specs, provided by Banggood.com, which you can buy from here .

The nice thing for some of you is that this LED LCD monitor has already a 5.8 Ghz FPV receiver included, so, normally you just need a FPV transmitter in order to work. Of course you can input the signal from your normal FPV receiver since the monitor has a 2 channel input selection, channel 1 for the built in receiver and channel 2 for the cable audio in video. Also it comes with a small hood, which might not be enough in strong daylight, but only suffice at lower light.The image quality was good with enough brightness even at 50%, so I think the specified 450 cd/m2 is achieved.
The specs are listed below and are according to banggood's information:
Screen size: 7 inch
Screen type: TFT LCD Screen LED backlight
Resolution: 800 x 480
Brightness: 450cd/m2
Contrast: 500:1
View Angle: 140/120degree (Horizontal/Vertical)
Working Voltage: 11.1V Li-po battery
Power Consumption: < 6w
Size: 170 x 110x 40mm
Working temperature: -10℃~+ 65 ℃

Working Frequency:
CH1: 5705MHz
CH2: 5685MHz
CH3: 5665MHz
CH4: 5645MHz
CH5: 5885MHz
CH6: 5905MHz
CH7: 5925MHz
CH8: 5945MHz

Features:
Built-in 5.8Ghz receiver
RPSMA Antenna Connections
Built-in 1CH 5.8Ghz AV output and 1CH AV input
Support 9 languages menu selection
The only let's say not great things about this LCD is that the screen is a bit reflective and that the connectors are not as in the banggood's website, but as you can see it in my below video, so please consider this when preparing your connectors ahead. 
I will do a follow up video showing it "in action" since people already asked me about the blue screen and the recovery time from that...I can tell you already it will go blue screen on heavy interference(low signal) and will recover fast...


What I liked:

• good price vs performance;
• good brightness
• good image quality
• FPV receiver included
• fast recovery after signal is lost

What I didn't liked:

• connectors not like in the product images;
• screen a bit reflexive

My new project: FPV quadcopter - the frame

THE HJ 450 frame with the top side sitting along

Following the introduction from the initial build post, let's move on to THE FRAME

Again, I choose this design over the classic one, because of the versatility of the TBS Discovery like frame… Assembling it was an easy task, but I suggest to use blue Loctite for the screws if you want to keep everything in place… You can see more in the pictures below…Anyway, I think that it would be a good idea to prepare your electronics aside the frame and plan on how to attach everything…

Also before mounting the top plate of the frame, I suggest to put in the flight controller, or at least to take a picture of all the connectors, pins and wires going to the FC for later convenience…In the below shot, I just formally installed the motors to check if the supplied screws match and everything works fine, and it did :)

 In the below picture, I just used a piece of foam pad that I had sitting around from a tarot zyx controller, and I will fit it under the Crius AIOP v2 flight controller to damped any vibrations from the motors...If you used anything better please let me know by posting your comment...
Currently my build is on hold since 3 out of 5 ESC's I ordered were dead on arrivel( 1 ordered extra just for this case)

 

 

After the ESC's will arrive, I will solder the bullet connectors, program them and resume my build...

Stay tuned for more to come...

My new project : HJ Alien FPV Quadcopter

Hello dear friends…

I don’t know if all rc heli fliers end up flying FPV multirotors or not, but it seems maybe as the next step in the hobby ?

Don’t know the answer, but I know that since I assembled my 450 heli, I tried to hang my smartphone to the landing skids and try filming the flight:)

Later on, after getting my Walkera Ladybird V.1, I was surprised on how easy an indoor hover is compared to a 6 channel genius cp, which is anyway a  very stable and smooth heli…I think that then, I had the “click” and decided on building a new quadcopter, a 450 size one, against my wife’s opposition

If you are into the quadcopters (or multirotors) already, maybe this info is not useful for you, but if you’re a newbie like me, figuring out all the pieces of this puzzle, then I hope that this info is useful to you…

So, it should all start, like any other project with your requirements: what should your new multirotor do? (quadcopter in my case?)

If you need a heavy lift platform to carry a heavy D-slr camera, then a hexa(6) or even a octo(8) platform is needed.

This is the list of parts I used in my quad project:

-frame : HJ MWC x-mode alien quadcopter 

-FC : the Crius All In One Pro V.20

-bluetooth : FC Bluetooth module

-Gps : - N-06 GPS receiver v.2.0

-UBEC : I choose to use and UBEC for powering the FC, I got this 3A one from here since the 5A version had much higher voltages then specifications;

-ESC : Hobbywing Pentium 30A ESC for quadcopter

-motors : Sunnysky x2212 KV980

-propellers:orange in the back same like my ladybird, hopefully will help my orientations;

-power : XT60- to 4 x ESC cables , instead of the power board used in standard quad designs, this is an direct spliced cable to power the ESC’s;

-various : foam sponge for FC mounting, white/red led stripes and spacers/stand-offs 

Off course, I already had 3S 2200 mAh batteries and balancing charger, a walkera RX-1002 receiver and my Devo 10 transmitter.

In my case a 4 motors(quadcopter) will fit my bill, and if needed able to carry a small camera for DVR purposes(maybe the 808 #16 V2), but also not be very expensive to repair a crash.

There are many quad frames from more or less famous brands, but I choose the HJ 450 alien or locust/flycat/alien or whatever name it might have frame. What’s special about it is that is not symmetrical like the typical 450 frame, but it’s longer and can fit a camera gimbal in the front and the battery on the back to compensate for the weight. Also the front arms are spaced, so that the front blades don’t show up in the field of the camera. I also liked that it has a lot of fixing points and gives you more options to install later add-ons.

Moving on, the main component or the “heart” of the quad is the FC or flight controller. Again, based on your target budget you can choose several types, but the most popular one’s in terms of software used would be the MultiWii and the Megapirate versions. You can search more about each one of these great open source projects in the links. Considering the price vs. features, my choise was the Crius AIOP(All In One Pro) V2.0 flight controller from the RCtimer site. It has all the nice features that more expensive FC’s have but comes to a under 60 usd price tag. Together with it I ordered the N-06 V2.0 GPS module and the FC Bluetooth module for Android.

Since the FC is quite sensitive to powering voltage, I choose to use an UBEC that provides a 5V with maximum 3A current only for the board.

I also have FPV equipment, 5.8Ghz tx/rx, and a SONY 600 VTL cam.

Anyway I will add the FPV stuff only after setting up the quad fully, and getting used to it, since now I can practice only with my Ladybird V1 micro quad…

Now, let’s get to the funny part, where actually I put the “bits and pieces” of this puzzle together to create a new flying machine J

I will structure the build in x main categories :

1.     FRAME
2.     MOTORS & ESC
3.     FC and related connections
4.     Gps and related
5.     Later add-ons
6.     CRIUS AIOP tuning, and my working setups
7.     FPV gear

Please stay tuned for the following parts and enjoy the overview of all the parts I got for this challenging build...

Is our hobby really SAFE ?

Hello again dear friends,
I didn't planned to write these lines now, but I read about a tragedy that happened this week, on Thursday, when a fellow RC pilot, named Roman Pirozek Jr. was killed by his own Rc helicopter during a flight in a public park in New York city(Calvert Vaux Park in Gravesend, Brooklyn)...I was thinking maybe daily about what could happen during flying, and this thought is hiding all the time in the back of my mind, troubling me...

My honest and sincere condoleances to the mourning family, and as a parent myself, I can't think of something worse on this world than seeing your child die before your eyes...But now, even if maybe some of you will argue about this and disagree,  I would not fly anything bigger than a 450 class in a public park, assuming there are no people nearby...Bigger birds( and I assume he flew one) should not be flown in other places that flying fields, to minimize the risks on public...Just imagine that the heli could have fallen on someone just having a walk with his family in the park...This thought is just real...Again, these things are NOT TOYS...They can be deadly...To be honest, I think also a 450 size heli carbon blade at 100% RPM could easily cut your throat open, leading to certain death...
So, just hoping that the following compilation of personal safety rules could help avoiding a tragedy or any type of rc heli accident, I will just lie down a summary of the rules I use when flying my helis:

1. Always connect transmitter first and helicopter second;
2. Always, I mean ALWAYS, use Throttle Hold(TH) whenever you don't plan to take off, but the battery has to be plugged in;
3. Always hit TH and then remove the battery no matter what;
4. If you loose the heli and there's no way to recover, hit TH ASAP;
5. If you fly a flybarless heli, always tilt the heli and check for the FBL compensations before taking off;
6. Always land ASAP if you see or feel something is "not right" or you hear any strange noise;
7. Regularly maintain your heli, and lubricate whatever needs that to be done;
8. Don't fly the heli over your head, you could loose orientation easily;
9. Don't fly when you are too tired, you need to be very focused when flying;
10. Don't fly when you have any alcohol in your blood, again focus is key when flying;
11. Always try to have someone with you(behind you) in case something bad happens he/she can call for help asap;
12. Don't fly when friends are around, you could push your limits "to impress" and you can make mistakes;
13. Don't push your limits when flying, take normal steps and only when you master it, move on;
14. Always take your time to check the sequence of steps before a flight, sometimes you're rushed to see the heli in the air and forget important things;
15. Maybe the most important rule of all : NEVER FLY OVER PEOPLE or near them....

I am sure some of you have their own lists, and you are welcome to share them here via the comments section...
We all enjoy flying and sometimes just disregard the risks we take, and unfortunately people need to die so that we open our eyes and realize that this hobby is fun but can be also deadly...
Please be responsible and please consider the safety of other people nearby and yourself also...

Life can be beautiful...Let's not waste it...
You can see the full article posted by the nydailynews here

Rest in peace Roman Pirozek Jr. and let's try and stop this count by being more responsible

Sony 600 TVL FPV camera

Hello,

Like many of you, I was looking to get a camera for my FPV quadcopter, and based on too many good reviews to ignore, I decided to go with the Sony 600 TVL.

Camera with additional metal case, PCB OSD and OSD manual

The camera comes like you can see in the below unboxing video with the separated OSD PCB board and you can connect it when needed, adjust whatever settings you need, and then simply unplug. Since currently I live in S. Korea, the seller automatically choose the NTSC camera, but after contacting them, they sent  another PAL camera that I will need back home in Europe.

Another “good thing” that came out of this wrong spec camera being sent to me is that I got  the first camera with the 2.8 mm lens, and for the second one I choose the 3.6mm lens, so after I will set it up, I will have two lens to choose from.

My camera comes with the metal case, already mounted, and since the PCB is not so crash resistant, I suggest getting it also…

Please check below the unboxing movie, and I will come back with more details during my quadcopter build.

Here is the unboxing and short presentation of the camera:

Walkera Master CP Metal Swashplate

Hello Friends
Since I really like my little flying tank, I thought of an small up-grade...Since the plastic stock swashplate developed quite a big slop, I considered a metal up-grade version from X-treme Production...I put some pictures of both old and new, and by flying a bit with the new swash, I feel the heli reacting a bit faster and feeling a bit more "locked" in...You can find the part on miracle mart website that sent it to me for a small review, here. I think a more interesting up-grade, would be their combo that they also sell, but at the time of this post, it was out of stock, here.

Side by side: left-metal version/right plastic version

Underside view

Profile view - metal swashplate

Profile view - standard swashplate

Stock swashplate has 3.2 grams

Metal swashplate has 3.6 grams

Finally installed on the heli

Now, hopefully my budget will allow for the addition of more metal parts in my Master CP, and later on I will have to see how the metal absorbs shocks in the eventuality of harder touchdowns compared to the stock plastic...
But you  can't have it all, can you ? :)
What up-grades do you guys have on your Master CP's ?
Let's share this info, and maybe consider these also...
Take care and happy flying :)

My new Walkera Ladybird quad

 

The backside of the box

Hmmm, why would I need a micro quad? I asked myself not long time ago…

The obvious answer was: I don’t need one, especially this small, right ?

Actually since my Devo 10 tx passed away with no reason, I was looking for a new TX, but then

a Devo10 deal bundled with the Ladybird caught my eye on RC711.com.

I only fly helis, so getting this quad should be an interesting experience…

So, I started reading about the ladybirds or ladybugs on the net, and I realized there are two versions of it…

-version 1, which is the one I got is the original bug with telemetry 6 axis gyro and up-gradable firmware;

-version 2, is the cheaper one with 3 axis, no telemetry and no up-gradable firmware.

I guess Walkera released V2 as a response to the huge number of Chinese ladybird clones starting to pop-up in the market and their main goal was price reduction in order to re-gain the lost territory.

What can I say about the Ladybird ?

I was surprised how stable my Genius Cp V2 was, but the bug is even more stable and unlike helis, you don’t need constant aileron/elevator correction to keep it leveled, this thing just hovers nicely…

Of course, you could use it to improve your orientations on your helis, but orientations only, since flying is totally different and I think the learning from quads cannot really be implemented on helis, as per se.

Since I already have some batts for my GCPV2 I am able to use it on the bug and reduce the downtime needed for recharging. I want to suggest you should leave it a couple of minutes between batteries to cool off the motors, since this was probably the reason my GCPV2 motor passed out. This is the bad thing about brushed motors, but I guess it was the only way to keep it simple.

So, please check the various sides and angles picture for your reference below:

The box

The bird came with 240mAh batt, you can use as size reference

Rear view

Left side

Right side

The "belly"

Canopy off

Closer look inside

Receiver board and the firmware update connectors

Weight without battery

Battery weight (240 mAh)

Canopy weight

Ready to fly weight

Also, you can check my unboxing movie and the really first time flight below:

What I liked :

-ultra stable

-small sized

-due to size it’s safer to fly indoor;

-my daughter loves the red ladybug canopy which is a plus on design;
-climb rate and forward speed are surprisingly fast for the size;

What I didn’t liked

-not really a dislike, but I think the motor booms can break easily during crashes/need to check if a micro heli landing skid will do ?
-my throttle stick on the Devo 10 was very stiff, but that's also not a complain for the bird

Now that I was innoculated with the multirotors bug, maybe a bigger one will be next?
p.s. hope my wife doesn't read this post :) 

 

My Genius CP V2 finally going brushless

I am sure there are about a ton of different variations to having a GCP converted to brushless motor, but I choose mine, and I want to share it with you guys, so maybe you go my way and find it easier to get the needed items for the conversion.

The 3 pin connectors, the motor screws, the 7A Airbase Esc+converter and the C05 motor+8T pinion

Despite the fact that this conversion is apparently something complicated to do, I can say it was really easy as long as you know what you need and how these things work.
Now let's look at the "ingredients" needed:

• C05 brushless motor - comes in different KV ratings and pinion sizes, personally I chose the one I found at hobbyking despite other more expensive deals already had terminals soldered onto them;
• The Airbase 7A ESC and brushless converter - this device has a double role of speed controller and brushed to brushless signal converter and I bought it from Miracle-mart, but at the time of this post, the only version on their website is the most expensive 10A version, link here
• 6 pin micro plug - you need this to connect the ESC with the C05 motor, I got this from hobbyking also
• Heat shrink tube(2mm) you will need this for the connections to the motor, link here
• Pinion - for better flight time, you can use the 8T pinion, for higher headspeed you can go 9T, anyway this is what I used, again from Miracle-Mart, a 1.5mm 0.5M

Now, assuming you got all the above in front of you, you should prepare the soldering iron or gun and after inserting hss of suitablle length on each motor wire you must proceed in soldering them to the 6 pin connectors. In order to get the right motor direction I tested the rotation direction before soldering and swapped if needed...After this step you will have the motor with soldered connector like below.

The C05 motor is about 3 grams in weight

The original Genius CP V2 motor is 3.9 grams

Already the motor is secured to the frame, be careful not to overtighten and leave some gear slack

View from above - the C05 motor and the 7A Esc and brushless converter combo

The problem I had was that the pin spacing on the motor connector didn't match the spacing on the ESC combo perfectly, so I just helped it by hand to settle in the right way.

For the pinion, I just add a bit of blue loctite and it sits there very nice, no more worries about it...

Next things is to fix the motor, and make sure you dont' put it very tight against the pinion, otherwise it will wear the teeth faster and the battery life will decrease. After you do this step also, you should find a place where the ESC combo should sit on the RX mainboard, without damaging any connections, some people use a bit of velcro to secure it in position, but I leave that to you guys...

Now in order to connect the ESC combo, you should do the following:

• the two wires on the motor's side must be connected to the battery(red (+) black(-));
• the original board's power supply connection(to battery) will be connected to the opposite side of the motor's connection point(3 pins), and the remaining connector will go the the original's motor connection point.

Please follow the picture's info on how to connect it to the Rx board

All these being done, change your throttle curves for more headspeed, and fly...
I got some 300mAh batteries that are designed for the solo  pro but with my modded Solo Pro 180 landing skid, they can be used without any issues...
The landing skid mod in a future post...
Enjoy your new heli, and you will see it flies so much better with the new heart...
Happy flying...

Flysky TH 9x-B with goods and bads

Tx, Rf module, 8ch receiver and the bind plug

Hello dear friends,

Today, I want to tell you about my experience with the TH 9x 8 channel transmitter.

It all started when I finally “compiled” my necessary “list of materials” to build my first proper 450 size heli, with carbon fiber frame, unlike my plastic Esky Belt CPX. On top of many components, it was the well priced TH9X transmitter and to go along I got a 6 and 8 channel receivers also. First impression when I opened the box was of cheap plastic.

The display was not bad, and the sticks and switches had normal feeling, so nothing special here…The good thing about this TX is that you can switch the RF module on the back, and unlike the Turnigy clone sold by HK, you don’t need to cut the antenna wire and re-solder it…When I connected everything to the receiver, I got the bad news: meaning this cheap TX had some serious channel bleeding

like you can see in this movie I made for myrcmart, hoping they will replace my transmitter…which they didn’t do L

This exercise was a lesson learnt for me, and imagine when I did the first tests, I removed the blades (which I strongly advise you also to do.) and I moved elevator right and my motor spooled up to maximum rpm…holy cow….that’s not something I would expect from a new out of the box product…Unfortunately more tests I did, just confirmed it was some factory issue, and changing the gimbal would cost alone about 25 USD…I was so disappointed, and set my build on hold…Even tough I did the movie explaining myrcmart(otherwise a good seller) that it’s busted, they kept saying I just like to complain…

At this point I considered installing the smartieparts upgrade board ~25 usd and the extra backlight lcd from HK~5 usd, hoping that by flashing the firmware to ER9x I could get rid of the problem; but adding 30 usd to the already payed 70 usd would make 100 USD for a product that I couldn’t really trust anymore, and what happens when you fly an more or less expensive heli and you crash it to something or somebory because of faulty TX?

I didn’t want to take the chance, so I decided I go Walkera way, and I bought a Devo 10 bundled with the Master Cp heli and an additional RX-1002 for my 450 project at a good price. The Devo 10 already has backlight LCD, and Usb connection for firmware upgrades, and on the TH9x I needed to buy extra components to have the same features..

As a bottom line: can I recommend the TH-9x?  my answer is no way…I know some of you have good experience with this TX, but I read way too many people having issues with these, and especially considering that no matter how many heli’s or planes you have, you use the same tx, I think that buying something a bit better is the normal thing to do….I am personally happy on my choice, and I fly my Genius cp v2, my master CP and my RCX 450 FBL with the same Devo 10 TX…

I hope TH-9x might have improved since, and hopefully nobody will just throw off the window 70 USD like I did(btw, the TX is still in it’s original box and never touched it since)

I wish you good flying and be safe,
Here is the unboxing and impressions video:

Bionic flying bird

Hello dear friends,
I just found this as a very interesting "toy" and Miracle-mart has it for sale now with 89 usd...
I think that if you got this on the flying field you would make quite an impression to your rc hobby friends, but to any flying birds nearby...
This bird comes equipped with 2.4 Ghz, with a theoretical range of 100 meters, and a flying weight of only ~ 9 grams !!! wow...that's a real light one. Also I think it's worth mentioning the patented systems that allow the simulation of real bird movements...
So, despite never flying it myself, I think it looks more than interesting to all of us flyers, to be able and actually fly something that really looks like a bird, and doesn't have blades or propellers.
Enjoy

Cheapest digital pitch gauge?

Hello again my friends
I was looking for a cheap digital pitch gauge to use on my 450 flybarless heli, and since the Align AP800 costs around 35 USD, I decided I would try the Tarot (clone) that I found on miracle-mart.com for 16 USD...
The gauge has backlight LCD, meaning you can use it in pitch black darkness(not really seeing the point of doing that, but you can :), It had already batteries inside, which these days is a rare commodity, it's detachable, so you can attach the lower part seen above to your blade, and then connect by pushing in place the electronic part which has autorotation function, meaning even if you hold it upside-down it will rotate the angle reading 180 degrees for the reading...
Important: you must tell it first the zero level...

Some specs available:
It can read up to approx 60 degrees pitch with 0.1 degree precision
It works with 20 to 72 mm width blades
It has 110x55x16 mm.

What I liked:

• price
• batteries included
• backlight LCD
• simple to use

What I disliked:

• the quality of the plastic used

The manual in the box

Working upside-down

Detached from the blade fixing device

Phoenix Sim - best bang for the buck?

Hello again dear friends...
Since in this hobby every mistake costs money, pride and frustration, I am sure that like me, many of you consider using a simulator for practice and only later try flying on the real heli...
Since I am always trying to find the best value for money I can tell you what I found regarding heli sims:

• RCheli sim free sim, good for learning orientations, but in my opinion the physics and graphic detail is not so good...still not bad for a free sim if you want to start;

• HeliX version 0.9, is the free version of the well known german sim which you can download here, the official version is 4.2, and I can say I like this free sim a lot, the physics and graphics are much improved, but of course the full version 4.2 which is about 60 euro has many extra features...I can recommend the 0.9 if you want a good free heli simulator, and additionally you can find some extra heli models on some rc forums;
• Clearview SE, this time by releasing this version, they give you the free sim but you must pay for the models you purchase...In my case I bought a set of 1 terrain and 4 helis for 2 usd each, total of 10 usd, and saved the rest up to 49 usd if I remember correctly. The graphics is acceptable, but the physics is not close to real.. For example T-rex450 helis spin with maybe 5 or 6 full 360 degrees in one second and this is far from real...The only model that was closer to reality in terms of handling was the TREX700...Of course that you can fine tune the models but is in a more difficult manner by editing some parameters which you don't really understand what they do...anyway in my opinion if you buy something it should work right away...so as a bottom line I think the Heli-x v.0.9 is better here...

And finally I decided enough frustration caused by bad physics, small number of helis and airfields to try on...I decided to buy a real sim, and I choose the Phoenix v.4 sim which is known for good heli physics, good graphics and maybe most important free future up-grades...preety cool, huh? The main competitor is the Real Flight but on this one, just understanding which version you must buy and which add-on version it works with, caused me a headache :)
The content is simple and it has a short installation guide, the version 4 DVD and most important the bundle cable, which is mainly the "key" to protect their sim against copying it...
The installation is simple, after that make sure the usb bundle is connected and the TX is on and you will be prompted for setup and calibration..After this is done, you can edit dual rates and other adjustments you need.
Just a tip: since I have a Walkera devo10 and the Phoenix comes with stereo 3.5mm Jack, but the walkera needs a mono jack, I just plugged in my universal sim cable in the tx, turn on the TX which thinks now it's in trainer mode, and replace the universal stereo jack with the phoenix mono jack with the TX on, and it works...I still plan to buy a normal stereo to mono converter but just want to let you know it can work like this also...
After I am more used to it, I might come back with a review of the sim's menu, settings, and so on...

 Below is the movie I made showing you basically the unboxing of the sim...



Likes:
+good price and free lifetime up-grades;
+good heli physics
+good overall graphics
+infinity scope, allowing to fly FPV like in a 3 d generated landscape
 Dislikes:
-considering the usb bundle is the hardware key to using the sim, the exit points of the electronic box is not perfectly tight, so I suggest putting some heat sleeve to ensure a long life of the assembly;

you can see there's quite a gap between the main wire and the rubber attached to the box

I hope you found the info useful and I really recommend using a sim, since it's easy to re-start after a crash on a sim, instead of real life, when you carry all the bits in a bag :(

Walkera Master Cp Alu box

Box size compared to the future inhabitants

Hello again,
This time, I want to share with you a small review of the 9imod Alu box for the Walkera Master CP and other similar sized helis.
First of all, I can say the quality is good, no rattling or other unwanted noises, only the keys are more just to show that work. The inside padding is also ok, and as you can see from the below pictures I had nothing to complain so far. Actually there's nothing fancy to expect, it's just a box, right?:)
Actually the spec is that it can accomodate the Master CP and any Devo compatible Tx, but I can say that you need to cut off quite a few of the padding inside the upper layer. Even like this, I really don't like that the blade of the heli is touching and putting a bit of pressure against the transmitter's antenna !....that's not good at all...Unfortunately you can't do anything to fix this, just hope that you will not drop hard the case or get a strong shock that could damage your TX(in my case a Devo 10)...

Front box view with two keys

Side view

Bottom view

Lower layer where you put the TX, for Devo 7E you get lots of room

Upper layer of padding where the heli  sits

What I like:
-light
-well built
-cheap

What I don't like:
-need to cut off the padding to accomodate bigger tx like the Devo 10
-the heli's blade pushes against the TX's antenna